Forums › Classifieds › Custom made distro’s
If anyone needs any done gis a shout. Nicely made… heres pic of one with 32 amp ceeform inlet on the back, Fed through a small RCD protected unit, allowing two twin 13 amp outlets to run.
These work out £90 each. Supplied pat tested.
I can knock up pretty much anything thats needed, control gear (for example a unit that can trip with over/under-voltage) time delayed RCD’s the lot.
Nice one Richie.
Suprisingly we don’t often come across clubs with either 3 phase or individual 32A mains outputs.
Would be interested in buying one of these when the time comes though, because we usually have to hire distro boardsat about £30 a go!
Yeah no worries, I can do anything made to order and these are built with proper 4 and 6mm tri-rated switchgear cable throughout, 20 amp breaker feeding each double outlet gives you ability for decent current draw.
RCD protected too just for your safety. – Again this can be modified to suit, 30mA, 100mA time delay and if you are running off a suspect genny I can even stick an over/under-voltage alarm/trip relay. The possibilities are endless.
As for running off normal mains outlets, im working on a safe version of a widow maker…. basically protects other 13 amp pins from coming live (u know the score)
Aye, good one m8…:biggreen:
Seen far too many genny’s (and no few club set ups) that didn’t have decent protection for both equipment and people operating the equipment…
Not funny on any kind of supply of mains power, and even less so with gennys (most of which fail to get earthed properly as well).
Just finished distro’s for our rig, but at that kind of price, I’ll probably be in touch next time I have to do it…raaaraaa
Sure thing yeah one thing I always point out is that when running off a genny, always make sure the neutral is tied to earth (a small piece of cable inside the socket across neut/earth will suffice) ans earth the genny with an earth rod. this will ensure that rcd’s operate correctly, as with a floating neutral they may not trip as they should.
Also doing what I suggested will mimic mains supply and reduce alot of mains hum issues!
If any distro’s need making up for gennies, I can also include a neutral/earth link, and an earthing stud on the distro if needed.
A good piece of kit, and competitively priced when you work out the cost of components and labour… although I could make one I don’t have the time these days especially to make it look as flash as that..
Suprisingly we don’t often come across clubs with either 3 phase or individual 32A mains outputs.
some of the electric distribution infrastructure that exists in Suffolk/Norfolk is the same stuff from the 1940s (a chap I know who works at EDF actually confirmed this!)
Seen far too many genny’s (and no few club set ups) that didn’t have decent protection for both equipment and people operating the equipment…
Not funny on any kind of supply of mains power, and even less so with gennys (most of which fail to get earthed properly as well).
I’ve seen some absolutely fucking horrendous things been done with mains feeds :hopeless: I’m suprised more people don’t get sparked sometimes..
round here we seem still at the stage of trying to convince people that amps are NOT 100% efficient – the reason some East Anglian rigs sound shit isn’t because their gear is crap but they often try running the entire stack off a single 3.5kva genset :you_crazy and extension leads from the DIY store and then wonder why it protests..
my old mans a electrical engineer so no need, but i dont know why u would want that anyway
yep, i totally agree, I worked for the electricity board where i did my apprenticeship as an electrical fitter & engineer and theres still some places out there that have got a 30 amp main cut-out porcelain rewireable fuse, both on the live and neutral! :crazy:
Just wait till these people install an electric shower 😉
I’ve just started making plans for a sweet distro which will have 63 amp three phase input, to a multitude of outputs (the plx2 amps are quite power hungry arent they lol!) and rigged so theres no dam nuisance earth fault tripping (sometimes happens when using switch-mode power amps)!
Anyway a trade secret – before you bang an earth rod in the ground, take a leak where youre gonna bang the rod in. makes the resistance go extremely low!
Richie. Talking of swicth mode amps. Why do they have an (only just) audible low frequency (200hz-ish) knocking sound at uniform intervals?
I only noticed it the other day when the rig was turned up full with no signal fed through it. I located the sound to be coming from the FFA. Not the actual amp making the noise but it must be sending some sort of small voltage signal to the drivers every 2 seconds. It sounds like someone knocking on a wall in the next room and it’s only just noticeable.
Not a problem, I’m just curious.
I havent the foggiest – not noticed it with my plx2’s i will have a listen next time they are set up. I got a berry LMS with switch mode on it, It might be a characteristic of the psu and depending on the level of the knocking sound, to the level of the music it might be within the s/n ratio’s, so if its like 80dB s/n ratio and you got it wound right up then you might hear strange little things. I will keep my ears open and investigate if i hear anything.
It can only really be heard with attenuation at full [well, actually, the oposite of full, but you know what I mean] and no other signal (music etc) That’s with possibilty of 6000w being called upon. I hasten to add that I have noticed no problem at all with the amp and would recommend FFA to anyone. They really are awesome.
Another question, while you are around 🙂
We currently use 4x 10m YY 4mm cable runs for the system. Fitted with double socket “ruggedised” duraplug/permaplug connections. Each run from seperate 13a sockets when inside clubs without any serious mains supply.
Is there anything better we should be looking at? Are there better, more industrial sockets for the job?
4mm cable terminated into 13 amp plug…. that must have been a very tight fit!
The cheapest option I would suggest thats safe, is making up some small 13 amp plug to 16 amp ceeform line socket adapters with short leads (1.5mm csa) and then terminating your 4mm cables into 16a ceeform plugs.
This would allow better power draw should you ever get the chance to run straight out of ceeform outlets off a genny or distro. Plus with 1.5mm cable being terminated into a 13 amp plug it gives you chance to double the copper conducter over before terminating it.
1.5mm conductor properly terminated like this is far safer than 4mm, and it would give you a whole lot more flexibility as you will have adapters for multi purpose.
The best option is to change the plugs and sockets on the 4mm cable to 32 amp ceeforms, like extension leads and run distribution from the 32 amp end into double socket outlet boards (like with my distro’s)
Then just purchase yourself some 1.5mm arctic or H07 cable, use that to make leads to your existing duraplug sockets to only be fed from 16 amp ceeform outlets, colplete with 13-16 amp adapters. That way you are making best use of everything you already have, without throwing anything away.
Where there is a will there is a way!
Then just purchase yourself some 1.5mm arctic or H07 cable, use that to make leads to your existing duraplug sockets to only be fed from 16 amp ceeform outlets, colplete with 13-16 amp adapters. That way you are making best use of everything you already have, without throwing anything away.
So buy some 1.5mm to be used with 16a ceeforms and 13-16 adapters for clubs with not so ideal power (nicking the duraplugs from the already existing cables).
Then convert, lets say, 3x 10m runs of 4mm cable so that there is 32a ceeforms at each end which will then be fed in to 3 of your distro boards or similar providing 6 twin 13amp outlets?
This will then give us flexibility for each eventuality. Did I catch you right?
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Forums › Classifieds › Custom made distro’s