Forums › Life › Computers, Gadgets & Technology › One bin for kick, one for sub.. How do I do it?!?!
I need to know this fairly soon coz I’m takin ma stack to a house party and one of ma mates is bringin one of his stacks, only thing is, his is fuckin massive and mines tiny. What I’m wantin to do is make it so that my bass bin is doing the kick of the bass and his is doing the sub coz its bigger:cry:. How can I do this? Also, I’m not too sure how to link 2 stacks up yet coz mine is run through an active Xover and his is passive. Any way of doin it?
The link up is possible but is likely to sound nasty in my experience of these things.
In an ideal world the rigs should both be active and the cabs tuned for similar frequencies. Anything else and you will get destructive interference [gaps in your frequencies as reproduced] in the sound. Both rigs on the same passives would also work probably {I havent used a passive in my rig in about 12 years though and never tried this though but in theory its good}
Not sure why you would bother doing a linkup indoors for a house party – choose the best rig for the job and use that. If you like his subs so much consider bypassing his passives and hooking the subs up to your active crossover for the event [again make sure that the sound is complimentary to what you are adding it to] which is fiddly but likely to sound better if the active rig is set up right.
{ps remember the house supply is only 13a technically – is this big enough to run both rigs and all the other stuff together?}
In an ideal world the rigs should both be active and the cabs tuned for similar frequencies. Anything else and you will get destructive interference [gaps in your frequencies as reproduced] in the sound. Both rigs on the same passives would also work probably {I havent used a passive in my rig in about 12 years though and never tried this though but in theory its good}
Not sure why you would bother doing a linkup indoors for a house party – choose the best rig for the job and use that. If you like his subs so much consider bypassing his passives and hooking the subs up to your active crossover for the event [again make sure that the sound is complimentary to what you are adding it to] which is fiddly but likely to sound better if the active rig is set up right.
{ps remember the house supply is only 13a technically – is this big enough to run both rigs and all the other stuff together?}
Yeh I could bypass his passives but that would mean gettin inside his boxes and it would be a rete piss about! I know what you mean about havin the cabs tuned similarly but his is a lot bigger than ours so ours won’t be able to go as low! What I were thinkin is to just leave my bin at home and use one of his coz he’s only bringin one stack so hes got left-over bass bins. In fact I’m not 100% sure that his is passive. I’m pretty sure it is from what he’s told me, only annoyin thing is I don’t know any of the rest of his crew and my mate is definately not the technical guy in all this (He hasnt got a clue how it all works:wink:). I’ll try and talk to one of them who knows whats what so I can sort out what to do, then I’ll post back ere! Cheers Raj
p.s Yeh the house supply will be enuff for it, as long as the amps are plugged into a socket each then we should be alrite. Its a predicament tho coz if his is passive then it will be a piss take to set up but if its active then were gunna have to try and find 6 seperate plug sockets just for the amps!
and do you know if these 6 plug sockets are correctly wired, and not shared with other stuff such as the electric space heaters commonly found in multiple occupancy houses?
IME electrics in this sort of house can be sketchy particularly as many electric heating appliances are used by landlords as they are seen as safer than gas.
I would suggest you go and have a look at the consumer unit first (if you are lucky it will be nice and tidy and labelled up and give you an idea of whether anything is shared (space heaters should be on their own 16 or 20A feed). Do that anyway, so if you do trip a breaker or pop a fuse by accident you can at least get this fixed so the housemates don’t spend the comedown in the dark (some places still use fuse wire!)
IME electrics in this sort of house can be sketchy particularly as many electric heating appliances are used by landlords as they are seen as safer than gas.
I would suggest you go and have a look at the consumer unit first (if you are lucky it will be nice and tidy and labelled up and give you an idea of whether anything is shared (space heaters should be on their own 16 or 20A feed). Do that anyway, so if you do trip a breaker or pop a fuse by accident you can at least get this fixed so the housemates don’t spend the comedown in the dark (some places still use fuse wire!)
Should be all good coz its just like a normal family house. I’ll av a look anyway though. What am I lookin for on the box then? What should it look like and what will it tell me?
Yeh we still use fusewire in our house, old skool!
at the consumer unit (fuse box) each fuse or circuit breaker will be labelled with its current rating.
newer MCB’s (trip switches) have a number on them showing the rating.
This is 6A for lighting circuits,
16A for standalone space heaters,
32A for ring final circuits (what sockets are normally connected to)
40A for the electric shower
older fuse wire carriers have a embossed number on them (often hard to read without a torch as they are usually made of brown bakelite plastic) – and a colour code
from memory this is white for 5/6A circuits
blue for 15/16A circuits
red for 30/32A circuits
yellow for 40A/42A circuits (used for electric shower and big cookers)
this link shows what both kinds commonly used in Britain look like
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Consumer_unit
(the different ratings are because they got changed a few years back to bring us in line with the rest of Europe)
if you are going to plug in loads of amps and maybe lighting what you need is two separate 13A sockets which doesn’t share the wiring with heavy stuff like the fridge, washing machines, big plasma screen telly etc. This should be connected to one of the 32A fuses or MCB.
even a double socket isn’t actually rated for 32A
from here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrical_wiring_(UK)
if the box isn’t labelled up (there may now be safety rules for multiple occupancy houses what state that it must be) then you can test this by turning off each breaker or removing fuses and checking which sockets don’t have power.
where it can get complicated in student/multiple occupancy flats is that landlords often give each room a single 16A or 32A feed from its own individual meter; and many skimp on the correct size of cable required.
also if you have loads of amps don’t turn them all on at once, as newer ones have power supplies which draw a very large inrush current when first switched on. in extreme cases this can pop the big fuse in the meter box after the service cable and then you have to call the electric distribution company out to replace it! (this old boy what was supposedly an experienced engineer at my old job did this once, to the great amusement of the rest of the team :laugh_at:)
incidentally 10 years ago I wouldn’t have bothered with suggesting checking the building power in such detail, but nowadays even small crews seem to have loads more powerful amps than back then…
This bit is particularly important so I am quoting it. If you have a suspect supply and you are concerned then do give each amp up to 10 minutes to charge its reservoir capacitors so as not to cause a meltdown if the sums for the amperage are borderline on 13a {yes I have had to do this and its a pain but better than cooking the available electric supply – the design parameters for our rig do include has to be able to be run off a single 13a ring main when inside}
The whole post is important though so go do your homework junglist and check on the house supply and thanks GL for putting it so clearly :weee:
newer MCB’s (trip switches) have a number on them showing the rating.
This is 6A for lighting circuits,
16A for standalone space heaters,
32A for ring final circuits (what sockets are normally connected to)
40A for the electric shower
older fuse wire carriers have a embossed number on them (often hard to read without a torch as they are usually made of brown bakelite plastic) – and a colour code
from memory this is white for 5/6A circuits
blue for 15/16A circuits
red for 30/32A circuits
yellow for 40A/42A circuits (used for electric shower and big cookers)
this link shows what both kinds commonly used in Britain look like
Consumer unit – Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
(the different ratings are because they got changed a few years back to bring us in line with the rest of Europe)
if you are going to plug in loads of amps and maybe lighting what you need is two separate 13A sockets which doesn’t share the wiring with heavy stuff like the fridge, washing machines, big plasma screen telly etc. This should be connected to one of the 32A fuses or MCB.
even a double socket isn’t actually rated for 32A
from here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrical_wiring_(UK)
if the box isn’t labelled up (there may now be safety rules for multiple occupancy houses what state that it must be) then you can test this by turning off each breaker or removing fuses and checking which sockets don’t have power.
where it can get complicated in student/multiple occupancy flats is that landlords often give each room a single 16A or 32A feed from its own individual meter; and many skimp on the correct size of cable required.
also if you have loads of amps don’t turn them all on at once, as newer ones have power supplies which draw a very large inrush current when first switched on. in extreme cases this can pop the big fuse in the meter box after the service cable and then you have to call the electric distribution company out to replace it! (this old boy what was supposedly an experienced engineer at my old job did this once, to the great amusement of the rest of the team :laugh_at:)
incidentally 10 years ago I wouldn’t have bothered with suggesting checking the building power in such detail, but nowadays even small crews seem to have loads more powerful amps than back then…
Cheers didn’t realise that all this would be an issue. I’ll try and learn a bit about it to make sure that I don’t blow owt up! Our amps should be alright (Coz theyr very underpowered for our speakers, not good I know but we can’t afford better ones) but the other crew whos comin’s amps are massive!! Thanks for makin it all clear.
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Forums › Life › Computers, Gadgets & Technology › One bin for kick, one for sub.. How do I do it?!?!
