Lard crisis: mince pies threatened as supplies dwindle
Supermarkets fear panic buying in the run-up to Christmas
Helen Carter
Tuesday November 16, 2004
The Guardian
Lard fans regard it as a gastronomic delicacy which makes cakes, pastry and roast potatoes taste fantastic. But others, notably vegetarians, think it is a disgusting animal fat.
It was immortalised as a comedy prop when the former deputy leader of the Labour party Roy Hattersley failed to turn up for a scheduled appearance on BBC TV’s Have I Got News for You. He was replaced by a large tub of lard.
But there is now a national shortage of lard and supermarket shelves are emptying. Notices have begun to appear apologising for the European lard shortage.
There are fears of panic buying in the run-up to Christmas when it is traditionally an ingredient in mince pies and Christmas puddings.
Demand in east European countries for cheap cuts of pork has led to a shortage of meat suitable for rendering into lard. New members of the European Union, including Hungary and Poland, are buying within the union to avoid a levy on non-EU imports.
Supermarkets such as Morrisons have been forced to display signs on shelves apologising for the lack of lard. Somerfield said it had already been forced to limit the number of tubs of lard on sale at each of its stores. It is advising customers to check their local stores to see if another delivery has arrived.
A statement from Morrisons said: “There is a general shortage of lard, but we are still getting supplies. Customer information notices have been made available to all our stores which inform our customers of the general shortage.”
Notices have also been spotted in Sainsbury’s supermarkets. One in a Cardiff branch read: “Due to the European lard shortage, we are currently unable to supply this product.”
Margarine and cooking oil have been put forward as potential substitutes.
Paul Heathcote, the restaurateur who owns the Simply Heathcotes and Olive Press chain, said lard had become more popular due to the resurgence of old-fashioned British cooking.
“For the first time in a long time, British cooking is being taken seriously and is appearing on menus in gastropubs and in restaurants. In recent years, vegetable shortening has been something which has taken over from lard because of the rise in the number of vegetarians.
“Lard makes chips and Yorkshire puddings taste absolutely fantastic – they taste entirely different with lard.”
He said his business was considering reintroducing fish and chips cooked with lard on to its menus as it had found a fryer which continually filters the cooking fat.
“I didn’t realise there was a shortage of lard,” he added. “I just thought it was related to people’s changing tastes.”
But he said there were problems with using lard because of the large percentage of non-meat eaters. It is also non-Kosher and so not suitable for Jewish clients.
“You can’t beat lard for roast potatoes with a Sunday roast,” he added. “It gives a really meaty taste and can be mixed with a little bit of oil to help keep the temperature right.”
But for lard fans, there is always the lard cam – which shows a fridge crammed with lard. It has been set up by the British Lard Marketing Board, a jokey site which promotes the use of the animal fat beneath the slogan: “Not suitable for weirdy vegetarians.”
Richest of fats
· Lard is made from hog fat and is richer than other fats.
· It is popularly used in flaky biscuits and pastries.
· Lard has fewer calories than butter: one tablespoon contains 13 grams of fat, 116 calories and 12 milligrams of cholesterol.
· Lardo di Colonnata, a heavily seasoned version of lard, is a delicacy in the Apuane mountains in Italy.
· Chocolard (from the British Lard Marketing Board website). Melt a block of lard in a pan. Stir in two dessert spoons full of cocoa and two tablespoons of sugar (white, refined). Pour into a mould. When nearly set, add a fancy pattern and when set wrap in tinfoil.
· A block of lard makes an excellent skating rink for insects
